2023年1月15日星期日

Honeycomb, Honeygold! Vitreum Champlevè Enamel Dial

 

When they first launched, most of us have not heard of Vitreum Watches. But what intrigued me was their limited production of an enamel dial with Honeycomb motif.

 

 

Based in Randers, Denmark and founded by Kasper Reisner the folks at Vitreum launched in limited quantities two versions of the Champlevé enamelled dial - the Starry Night and Honeycomb. Was it Starry Night or Honeycomb? Tough choices but I settled for the Honeycomb.

The hand wound FH01 launched the brand. The enamel dials are made in Wales but the timepiece assembly is done in Denmark. 

 


 These mechanical timepieces come with a Grand Feu Enamel dial and for the Honeycomb, uses the Champlevé technique. What that means is that the cells in the Champlevè dial are first shaped in a solid piece of silver, after which each cell is engraved by hand creating the miniature sunbust pattern. Then honey-coloured vitreous enamel (raw enamel) is carefully filled into the recess (in this case the honeycomb) and then fired at 850°C to achieve the grand feu enamel dial. 

 


 As with any hand crafted products, no two are alike. Similar but never the same. With hand crafted enamel work each layering, firing, polishing will bring different results. Even between cells of the honeycomb, you can see differences guaranteeing that its hand crafted and not commercially done - not sure if you can actually do commercial enamel dials like these. 

 


 

 And with hand made enamel dials, there are bound to be imperfections. Because they are hand made, no two dials are alike as each dial will have a different colour configuration. When one buys the Vitreum Honeycomb, they will get a unique piece. 

 


 The FH01 is released in a a limited quantity of 5 per variant. As I understand it, this might not be the only Honeycomb Vitreum might do. Seems like there will be future releases too. In what form and shape, I don't know. 

The overall package is a compelling one. Even the hands are pretty well made too...  

As for the strap, I matched it with the Japanese INDEN: Inden Urushi,

The INDEN portion of the strap is created from combining Japanese deer leather with hand-applied urushi lacquer. Popular during the Sengoku period (1467-1603) as part of samurai armorware, this centuries-old technique is now applied to create what is perhaps one of the most unique watch straps today. The INDEN Urushi leather features the unique properties of urushi lacquer - becoming glossier and achieving a slight patina over time. It is extremely time-consuming to create and cure INDEN and only a limited number of sheets can be made each year. The deer leather is sustainably sourced from official local breeders in the western Japan, and is very limited. 

 

Beating inside is a hand wound Sellita SW210 movement.This version in my hand is engraved  signature with Kasper Reisner , so I got a unique one.

And a nifty detail... there is a recess in the case. Pulling out the crown is that much easier. 


The brushed polishing and lightening on both sides of the case. 

 

Many challenges along the way, but the folks at Vitreum have come through with a very unique product. Congratulations to Kasper and the Vitreum team. Can't wait to see what's next in the line up. 

 

 

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